Viper Gecko Care
(Teratolepis fasciata)
General
Viper Geckos are a small terrestrial species from Pakistan with an adult
size of around 4" (10cm) With their striking markings & colouration
and relative ease of care, these geckos are proving a popular choice with
beginners & experienced keepers alike. However they are more frequently
available as wild-caught specimens with only a few breeders in the UK achieving
consistent success. Wherever possible, always search for captive bred,
as these are less likely to suffer from stress & are free of the often
fatal parasites found in wild caught
Housing
Viper geckos can be housed simply in glass vivaria with a minimum size
of 18" x 12" x 8" high, or in one of the larger (18"
x 12" x 9") fauna boxes commonly available. There are many disagreements
over the correct substrate to use with this species. We’ve found the ideal
being pure calcium carbonate the safest option, although fine-grade sand
is also used by some keepers. However even fine-grade sand can pose a threat
of impaction.
Other keepers use kitchen towel, which is easy to maintain if a little
alien to the geckos natural comfort. However kitchen towel is by far the
safest option with hatchlings or young geckos.
Furnishings should consist of a few small, flat rocky perches and several
cork hides for security, placed at either end of the viv to allow the gecko
a choice and the chance to thermo-regulate
Heating, Lighting & Humidity
Viper geckos are nocturnal and therefore do not necessarily need specialist
lighting, however they do need to have access to at least some lighting,
even if it’s only daylight, to help maintain a natural body clock. The
period of daylight needs to mimic natural seasonal changes, with a total
of up to 16 hours in high summer to around 8 hours during winter. If using
an artificial lighting source, try to maintain these seasonal adjustments
with the use of an electrical timer.
Viper geckos require an ambient temperature of 80°F (27°C) rising to a
hot spot of 95°F (35°C),with a night-time drop of approx 10°. These temperatures
are easily achieved with a heatmat controlled by a suitable thermostat
placed along the outside of the viv and covering one third of the ground
area. If using artificial lighting, adjust the thermostat accordingly to
take into account the higher ambient temperature. Always use a quality
digital thermometer to monitor your temps
Feeding
Suitably sized crickets can provide the bulk of a Viper geckos diet, but
they will thrive if given as much variety as possible to provide alternative
minerals & maintain an interest. Other commonly available insects include
waxworms, and small locusts. These in turn can be supplemented with small,
naturally occurring invertebrates during the spring & summer months,
such as small spiders, grasshoppers etc.
Food insects should always be gut-loaded a day prior to feeding with a
high-quality insect gutload, fresh green vegetables and non-citrus fruit.
Extra supplementation can be provided by dusting the insects with Nutrabol,
Reptivite or equivalent every other feed. We have also found the addition
of a small bowl filled with calcium powder placed in the viv an ideal option,
with the geckos often helping themselves as they need - especially with
breeding females
Breeding & Hatchling Care
Viper geckos are relatively easy to sex with the males having large, hemipenal
bulges.. Females ideally need to be at least 12 months old before breeding
is attempted. Any earlier and you run the risk of putting too much strain
on the female, with often fatal consequences. Females should also be in
top health, with a good weight and thick, healthy fat deposits in the tail
& around the hips. Viper geckos are notoriously prolific, but like
other small prolific geckos, this should never be exploited to the detriment
of the females health. We recommend separating the female after 4 - 6 clutches
to allow time to recuperate.
Eggs may continue to be laid during this rest period and close attention
should be paid to her weight & overall healthThe young can be raised
in the small lunch-box type containers using kitchen towel as a substrate.
Gently spray one end with water everyday to provide a humid area.
Hatchlings can be fed with suitably sized prey items offered daily. They
are very delicate at this stage and care should be taken to ensure their
environment is never allowed to dry out completely. Water is best provided
by means of a small, shallow bowl.
The young can be raised in the small lunch-box type containers using kitchen
towel as a substrate. Gently spray one end with water everyday to provide
a humid area. Hatchlings can be fed with suitably sized prey items offered
daily. They are very delicate at this stage and care should be taken to
ensure their environment is never allowed to dry out completely. Water
is best provided by means of a small, shallow bowl.
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